Senin, 16 Februari 2015

Home networking explained, part 5: Setting up a home router

CNET editor Dong Ngo explains the best way to set up most Wi-Fi routers: via the Web interface. This guide can be applied to all consumer-grade routers in the market, save for those from Apple.

Most routers' Web interfaces come with similar items and are self-explanatory.
Most routers' Web interfaces are similar and self-explanatory. Dong Ngo/CNET
Editors' note: This post is part of an ongoing series. For the other parts, check out the related stories section below.
It might seem like a daunting task to set up a new home router. But it doesn't have to be if you understand the most common way routers are managed: through the Web interface. The hardest part of using the Web interface is getting to it. Once you have gotten there, the rest, at least most of it, is self-explanatory.


Note: Almost all home routers on the market come with an Web interface, which is a Web page from which users can view, manage, and monitor the router's settings and features. The only company that doesn't offer a Web interface for its router is Apple. With that in mind, this guide is intended for non-Apple routers only.

In this post, I'll talk about how you can quickly set up any router by accessing its Web interface and manage it from any connected computer or even a tablet or smartphone.
Let's start with the basics.

1. What is a browser?


A Web browser is a software application designed for retrieving, presenting, and exchanging information resources on the Internet. All browsers have an address bar where you can type in the Web address of a website, such as www.cnet.com. After that, you hit Enter and the browser will let you browse (hence the name) the content of the site. As you surf the Internet, the address bar automatically displays the current address of the Web page you're looking at, whether you typed in the URL or got to it by clicking on a link, such as one from within an email or from another Web page. This Web page address is called a uniform resource locator (URL).
Among the most popular browsers are Google Chrome, Mozilla Firefox, Apple Safari, and Microsoft Internet Explorer. You'll find at least one of these browsers on any computer, tablet, or smartphone, and any of them can be used to manage a router's Web interface.

A router's WAN (Internet) port is always clearly distinguished from the LAN (Ethernet) ports. Also note the reset button, which brings the router's settings to default value.
A router's WAN (Internet) port is always clearly distinguished from the LAN (Ethernet) ports. Also note the reset button, which brings the router's settings to default value. Dong Ngo/CNET

2. Setting up the hardware

When you get a new router, setting up the hardware is very simple. (If this part of home networking is new to you, check out part 1 of this series first). All you need is a computer that has a network port (most computers do) and two network cables (a new router comes with at least one network cable). Follow these steps, regardless of what the router's included setup guide might say:
  1. Connect the router's WAN port to your Internet source, such as a DSL or cable modem, using the first network cable. All home routers have just one WAN port (sometimes labeled the Internet port); this port is always separate from the other network ports and often is a different color to further differentiate it. Note: If you do not have Internet access at home, or want to have an isolated (non Internet-enabled) network, you can skip this step. Later on you can always complete this step when the Internet is available or needed.
  2. Connect one of the router's LAN ports (most routers have four LAN ports) to the computer using the second network cable.
  3. Plug the router into the power outlet using its power adapter, as you would with most electronics. If the router has an on-off switch, make sure the router is on. Many routers don't have this switch and will turn on as you plug it in.
That's it -- you have just finished the hardware setup.

3. Accessing the Web interface

The next step is to use the Web browser to display the router's Web interface. Basically, you will need two things: the router's URL, which is always its default IP address, and default log-in information. You'll find this information in the router's manual, and sometimes it's printed on the underside of the router, as well.
Most, if not all home routers on the market have a default IP address in this format: 192.168.x.1, where, depending on the vendor, x tends to be 0, 1, 2, 3, 10, or 11. For example, routers from Trendnet almost always have a default address of 192.168.10.1, while D-Link routers use 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1.
And the log-in information is also quite predictable. The username (if any) is almost always admin and the password (if any) tends to be one of these: admin, password, default, or 1234.
Once you have gotten these two pieces of information, just type the router's IP address in the address bar of a browser on a connected computer, press Enter, and then enter the log-in information, after which you'll be greeted with the Web interface.

You can quickly find out the router's default address by using the ipconfig command on a Windows computer.
You can quickly find out the router's default address by using the ipconfig command on a Windows computer. Dong Ngo/CNET
Here's a handy chart of info for popular networking vendors that I put together. (Note that during the setup process you should change this information, at least the default password, to keep your network safe from intruders.)
Vendor Default IP Default log-in (username/password)
2Wire (AT&T) 192.168.0.254 (blank)/(the device's serial number)
3Com 192.168.1.1 (blank)/admin or adminttd/adminttd
Amped Wireless 192.168.3.1 admin/admin
Asus 192.168.1.1 admin/admin
Belkin 192.168.2.1 (blank)/(blank) or admin/1234
Buffalo 192.168.11.1 root/(blank)
D-Link 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 admin/(blank)
Linksys 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 (blank)/root or admin/admin or (blank)/admin or Administrator/admin
Motorola 192.168.0.1 admin/motorola or admin/password
Netgear 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1
admin/password or Admin/1234
Trendnet 192.168.10.1 admin/admin
ZyXel 192.168.1.1 admin/1234
Also, from a connected computer, you can always find out what the current IP address is of the local network's router. This is helpful if a router's default IP address has been changed. On a Windows computer do this:
  1. Run the command prompt (you can find it in the Start menu, or in Windows 8 just type cmd when you're at the Metro Start menu, then press Enter).
  2. At the Command Prompt window, type in ipconfig then press Enter. You will see a lot of things, but the IP address following the Default Gateway is the address of the router.

On a Mac, it's also quite easy to find out the default IP of the local network's router.
On a Mac, it's also quite easy to find out the default IP of the local network's router. Dong Ngo/CNET
On a Mac: Head to System Preferences > Network > select the current connected connection (it's likely Ethernet) > click on Advanced > on the first tab, TCP/IP, the router's IP address is shown next to Router.

4. A new router's basic settings

Though the design of the Web interface is opened varies from one vendor to another, most of them have granular menus. Listed below are typical main menu items and what they do.
Wizard: This is where you can start a step-by step guided setup process. Many routers' interfaces show the wizard when the Web interface is accessed for the first time. You just have to go through and set up a few of the routers' settings, such as its log-in password (to be changed from the default -- you should definitely do this to keep your network secure) and the name and password for the Wi-Fi network (or networks, for dual-band routers). Some wizards also ask for your time zone, the current time and date, and so on. With most routers you can skip the wizard and set up the router manually, if you want to, or you can finish the wizard and get back to the interface to further customize the network.

It's a good practice to save the router's current settings before making changes. This way you can always restore the previous settings if something goes wrong.
It's a good practice to save the router's current settings before making changes. This way you can always restore the previous settings if something goes wrong. Dong Ngo/CNET

Setup section

Wireless (or Wireless settings): Where you can customize the router's Wi-Fi network(s). You can pick the name of the network, change the password, turn the Wi-Fi Protected Setup feature on or off, and a lot more.
WAN (or Internet): Most of the time you should use the Auto setting for this section. However, some ISPs might require special settings; in those cases you can enter them here.
LAN (or Network settings): This is where you can change the local network settings, including the default IP address of the router itself. (Note that if you change the router's default IP address, which is recommended for security reason, you'll then need to use the new address to access the router's Web interface.) Here you can also change the range of IP addresses used for local clients, and add clients to the DHCP Reservation list. Once on this list, the clients' IP addresses will remain the same, which is required for some Internet applications. Most of the time, you don't need to change anything in this section at all.

Tools (or Administration) section

Admin password (or Password): Change the router's password. This is the password required when you log in the router's Web interface.
System: Where you can back up the current settings of the router to a file, or restore settings from a file; update the router's firmware; and so on. It's always helpful to back up the router's settings before you make changes.
You'll find a lot more settings and features on a router's Web interface, and when have time, you should try them out. If worst comes to worst, you can turn to the last-resort step below to restore the router to its default settings.

5. The last resort

All routers come with a reset button. This is a tiny recessed button that can be found on the bottom or side of the device. Using something pointy, such as an unfolded paper clip, to press and hold this button for about 10 seconds (when the router is plugged into power) will bring its settings back to the factory default. In other words, the router will be reset to the state it was in when you bought it. You can set it up again from the beginning, or you can log in to its Web interface and restore the router's settings from a backup file.
That's it for now. If you haven't found your questions answered, send them to me via Facebook, Twitter, or Google+, or just post them in the comments section below.

Configuring your Mac's network settings

Mac 101

Getting started with your Mac

Configuring your Mac's network settings

At one time, a typical Mac user would no more have connected a couple of computers to the Internet via a local network than they would have extracted their own kidney. If you just mentioned the word networking (outside the context of calling former business associates to seek a better job), those around you shook with fear.
Blessedly, those days are almost entirely over. Now, just about anyone can configure and join a network. Let’s see how it’s done.

A little background

I’m going to assume that you already have some variety of Internet service—along with a broadband modem (the box that brings broadband Internet service into your home or office) that includes or is connected to a router (a device that distributes network addresses to computers and mobile devices connected to it). When you signed up for that service, either someone installed it for you or you were sent the gear you needed and you followed the instructions necessary to connect to the Internet.
In most cases, the modem/router relationship works this way: Your Internet service provider assigns something called an IP address to your Internet account. This address is selected from a range of addresses that the ISP owns, and it can change depending on the kind of account you’ve signed up for. (If you have a static account, you’ll always have the same IP address; if you have a dynamic account—which is most common—your IP address can change.) This IP address is your main thoroughfare to the Internet.
The router, as its name implies, routes devices connected to it (either with a wire or via Wi-Fi) so that they can access your Internet connection. The router creates a number of internal IP addresses—private addresses used only within your local network. When you log on to your network with your Mac or an iOS device, it’s assigned one of these addresses. An easy way to think of a local IP address is as the device’s network name—like Shane, Courtney, Anastasia, or Gub-Gub—only in this case, the name is represented by a string of numbers separated by periods (192.168.0.22 or 10.0.1.29, for instance).
I don’t want to burden you with a load of technical terms, so perhaps an analogy will help you understand how they all fit together. Imagine that the IP address assigned by your ISP is a road in front of your house. The modem is your home’s driveway. The router is the home itself. And the router’s IP addresses are the many doors you use to enter and exit your home.

Configuring the Network preference

Now that the theory portion of the lesson is over, let’s move to its practical application by choosing System Preferences from the Apple menu and selecting the Network preference.
Along the left side of the Network window, you’ll see any network avenues available to you. Exactly what you see here depends on the Mac you’re using. A Mac that sports an ethernet port and carries Wi-Fi circuitry will, at the very least, display ethernet and Wi-Fi entries. A green dot next to any entry indicates that the connection is active and available to use. A yellow dot means that the connection could be active, but it’s not yet configured. And a red dot tells you that there is no connection (a FireWire entry will show the red dot if there’s no FireWire cable attached to your Mac, and the Wi-Fi item will have its own red dot if you’ve turned Wi-Fi off). You may also see listings for Thunderbolt Ethernet, USB Ethernet, FireWire, Thunderbolt FireWire, and Bluetooth PAN. We’ll concern ourselves with ethernet and Wi-Fi, as they’re the most commonly used connections.
The Network preference shows you all your existing connections.
Select one of these active connections (again, one with a green dot). If you’ve selected Wi-Fi, you’ll see a Status entry to the right, which should read Connected. To its right is a Turn Wi-Fi Off button. To disable Wi-Fi, just click this button. Below the button you’ll see the name of the network you’re connected to as well as the IP address assigned to your Mac.
If you choose an active ethernet connection, you’ll spy the same Connected entry with an IP address below. (Note that if you have both an ethernet and a Wi-Fi connection active, this IP address will be different than the Wi-Fi address because each connection gets its own internal IP address). In most cases, you should then see Using DHCP in the Configure IPv4 pop-up menu, along with your Mac’s IP address, subnet mask, router, DNS server, and search-domain information. You can ignore the bulk of this information.

Troubleshooting your network

There are, however, two items I want to draw your attention to. The first is the Advanced button. Click it and a sheet appears that is sure to set the new Mac user’s teeth on edge (so many numbers and acronyms!). Don’t panic—we’re going to look at one entry only.
If you find that you’re unable to make an Internet connection and that the dot next to your normally active connection has turned yellow, it may be because your Mac has become confused about its IP address. In such cases it can help to renew that address. To do this, in the Advanced sheet, click the TCP/IP tab and click the Renew DHCP Lease button. This sends your router a “We need to reestablish our normally cozy relationship—could you make sure we’re on the same page?” message. With a little luck, renewing that lease will restore your connection. When you’re finished, click OK.
Renewing the DHCP lease can sometimes put a network back on its feet.
This method is hardly a cure-all, however, and that’s why I direct you next to the Assist Me button at the bottom of the window. Click it and a sheet appears. Within this sheet, click Diagnostics. This launches the Network Diagnostics application that helps you determine the health of your network.
The left side of the window displays a series of entries. For an ethernet connection, you'll see Ethernet, Network Settings, ISP, Internet, and Server. For a Wi-Fi connection, you'll see Wi-Fi, Wi-Fi Settings, Network Settings, ISP, Internet, and Server. When you have a solid Internet connection, a green dot will appear next to each item. If something’s wrong, you’ll see red dots. If Ethernet, Network Settings, and ISP bear the green dot, but the Internet entry has a red dot next to it, the problem is on your IPS’s end and not yours. Wait it out or contact your ISP to find out when the issue will be fixed. If the red dots appear next to Ethernet and Network Settings, there’s something wrong with your network configuration.
The Network Diagnostics application can help you pinpoint the blame for your network problems.
If the problem appears to be on your end, you may be able to fix it by simply choosing the kind of connection you’re using and clicking through a series of Continue buttons. Network Diagnostics can repair a handful of local network issues, so click Continue a few times to see what it can do.